Things to Do in Mathraki: Beaches, Walks and Island Life
Mathraki is the smallest and southernmost of the three inhabited Diapontian Islands northwest of Corfu.
The island has no major archaeological sites, organised attractions or busy resort villages. Its appeal lies in its long sandy beach, green interior, walking paths, tiny harbours and peaceful settlements.
Most visitors arrive at Plakes on the eastern coast. From here, a road and network of smaller paths connect Portelo Beach, Chorio, Ano and Kato Mathraki and the quieter western coastline.
Mathraki can be visited as an excursion from Corfu, but staying overnight provides enough time to explore its more secluded beaches and experience the island without planning everything around the return boat.
Mathraki Quick Reference
| Best beach | Portelo |
| Main harbour | Plakes |
| Principal settlement | Chorio |
| Highest point | Merovigli, approximately 152 metres |
| Best activity | Walking across the island |
| Best for | Quiet beaches, nature and escaping crowds |
| Transport | Primarily walking; no dependable public transport |
| Recommended stay | Two or three nights |
1. Swim at Portelo Beach
Portelo is Mathraki’s defining natural attraction.
The beach extends for approximately three kilometres along the island’s eastern coast, beginning near the harbour at Plakes.
Its long sandy shoreline and generally shallow water distinguish it from the smaller rocky bays on the western side of Mathraki. The beach is rarely crowded, and visitors can walk away from the harbour to find increasingly quiet sections of sand.
Development is limited. Some facilities may be available closer to Plakes during summer, but visitors should not expect organised beach clubs or services along the entire shoreline.
Portelo is the easiest beach for day visitors because it can be reached immediately after arriving at the harbour.
Best for: sand, swimming, families and long walks beside the sea.
2. Walk the Length of Portelo
Portelo is not simply somewhere to swim.
Walking along the beach demonstrates how little of Mathraki’s coast has been developed. The harbour and buildings around Plakes gradually disappear, leaving a long strip of sand backed by vegetation.
The exact width and condition of the beach can change with weather and winter storms. Some sections may be easier to walk than others, particularly after rough seas.
Begin in the morning or late afternoon rather than crossing exposed sand during the hottest part of the day.
Bring water because services should not be assumed once you leave the harbour end of the beach.
3. Explore Plakes Harbour
Plakes is Mathraki’s main point of arrival and its most important connection with Corfu.
The harbour is small and functional rather than a developed marina. Fishing boats and visiting yachts share the waterfront with the ferries serving the Diapontian Islands.
Portelo Beach begins nearby, while the island’s principal road leads inland towards its scattered settlements.
Plakes is also one of the most practical places to find food and basic supplies. Travellers should establish what is available here before beginning a longer walk across the island.
The harbour is an enjoyable place to watch boats arriving and departing, particularly when the island is otherwise quiet.
4. Walk Through Chorio
Chorio is Mathraki’s principal village, positioned inland among olive trees, cypresses and other dense vegetation.
The settlement is a loose collection of homes rather than a compact centre filled with shops and restaurants. Its character comes from gardens, traditional houses, churches and the paths connecting different parts of the community.
Walking through Chorio provides a clearer sense of everyday Mathraki than remaining around the harbour.
The village’s elevated position also creates views across the island and surrounding sea.
Visitors should remember that houses, gardens and agricultural land are private property. Remain on established roads and paths rather than creating shortcuts.
5. Visit Ano and Kato Mathraki
Mathraki’s small communities are commonly divided between Ano Mathraki in the south and Kato Mathraki in the north.
The distinction is less obvious than the boundaries between villages on larger islands. Homes and small neighbourhoods are dispersed through the countryside rather than organised around busy central squares.
Walking between them reveals olive groves, wooded sections and occasional views towards Corfu and the surrounding islets.
The church and hill cemetery around Ano Mathraki provide one of the southern area’s most recognisable points of interest.
These settlements are not attractions in a conventional sense. Their appeal lies in seeing how a very small Ionian island is inhabited and connected.
6. Follow Mathraki’s Walking Paths
Walking is the best way to explore Mathraki.
A surfaced road runs through much of the island, while older stone paths and smaller tracks lead towards churches, coastal bays and viewpoints.
The island is only a few kilometres long, and experienced walkers can explore much of it in a day. However, distance is not the only consideration. Heat, uneven surfaces, limited signs and overgrown paths can make a route more demanding than expected.
Ask locally about current path conditions before attempting isolated parts of the western coast.
Wear secure footwear and carry more water than you expect to need. Mobile coverage should not be treated as a substitute for preparation.
7. Climb Towards Merovigli
At approximately 152 metres, Merovigli is the highest point on Mathraki.
Although modest in elevation, it provides a useful perspective over the island’s long, narrow shape and the surrounding Ionian Sea.
The walk towards the higher ground passes through the island’s green interior rather than a bare mountainous landscape. Olive trees and cypresses are among the dominant features.
Merovigli is best approached in the morning or later afternoon. Midday heat can make even a relatively short ascent uncomfortable.
There may not be a clearly marked summit platform or formal viewpoint, so ask locally about the best current approach.
Best for: views, walking and understanding the island’s geography.
8. Visit Arvanitiko Beach
Arvanitiko lies towards the southern side of Mathraki and provides a quieter alternative to Portelo.
Descriptions of the shoreline vary between sand, pebbles and rock, reflecting the changing coastal conditions and different points of access around the bay.
The beach can be approached on foot from the southern settlements, but visitors should confirm the clearest path before setting out.
There are no dependable facilities, so bring everything needed and take all rubbish back to Plakes or your accommodation.
Arvanitiko is best for travellers who enjoy exploration and seclusion rather than those wanting the easiest beach day.
Best for: solitude and exploring southern Mathraki.
9. Explore Apidies Harbour
Apidies is a small harbour and coastal area on the western side of Mathraki.
It has served local fishing boats and was one of the island’s older landing places before Plakes became the principal harbour.
The shoreline is predominantly rocky or pebbly and considerably less conventional than Portelo Beach. Its appeal lies in the sheltered fishing-harbour atmosphere and undeveloped western landscape.
Apidies can be reached on foot from the southern part of the island. The route provides an opportunity to cross from Mathraki’s sandy eastern shore to its more rugged western coastline.
Swimming may be possible when conditions are calm, but visitors should check entry and exit points carefully.
Best for: walking, fishing-harbour scenery and exploring the western coast.
10. Discover Kontrakas
Kontrakas is another of Mathraki’s old harbour areas.
It is no longer the island’s main arrival point, but its history helps explain how different sections of the coastline were once used before modern harbour infrastructure developed at Plakes.
The surrounding settlement and coast remain quiet, with limited visitor facilities.
Kontrakas is best included as part of a longer walk rather than treated as a major standalone attraction. The journey provides a reason to explore paths away from Chorio and see another side of the island’s maritime life.
Ask locally about the most accessible route, as old coastal paths can change over time.
11. Walk to Fyki Bay
Fyki is a curved bay on Mathraki’s western coast, surrounded by green countryside.
The area offers a different landscape from the long, open sand of Portelo. Depending on the precise access point, the shoreline may include sand, pebbles and rocky sections.
The distinctively shaped islet of Trachia lies offshore and forms part of the view from this side of Mathraki. The islet was historically used as a source of stone.
Fyki is most rewarding for visitors staying long enough to dedicate part of a day to the western coast. It should not be approached with expectations of an organised beach or nearby restaurant.
Best for: coastal scenery, walking and quiet swimming when conditions allow.
12. See the Offshore Islets
Mathraki is surrounded by small uninhabited islands and rocky outcrops.
These include Diapolo, Diakopo, Gravia, Trachia, Platia and Karavi, along with smaller rocks and reefs.
The islets contribute to the character of the surrounding seascape and attract fishing boats, sailors and marine life.
A private boat or locally arranged excursion provides the best way to see them closely, but availability should be confirmed rather than assumed. Sea conditions can change quickly, and not every visiting boat offers island tours.
Even without taking a boat, several islets can be seen from Mathraki’s coast and higher ground.
13. Snorkel Along the Rocky Coast
Portelo’s sandy seabed is suited to easy swimming, while the rockier western coast offers more varied underwater terrain.
Apidies, Fyki and other sheltered coastal areas may provide interesting snorkelling when the water is calm.
Bring personal equipment from Corfu because specialist rental facilities are unlikely to be available.
Avoid entering unfamiliar rocky water alone. Check for currents, boat activity and a safe place to leave the sea before swimming away from shore.
The northwestern seabed around Mathraki is also known among experienced divers, but independent scuba diving requires suitable qualifications, equipment and local knowledge.
14. Watch the Fishing Boats
Fishing remains an important part of life around Mathraki.
Small boats can be seen around Plakes, Apidies and the surrounding reefs. The rocky islets and comparatively quiet waters have long attracted fishing vessels from the wider region.
Visitors may find locally caught fish in the island’s tavernas, although availability depends on weather and the day’s catch.
Watching the harbour activity provides a more authentic experience than searching for a formal maritime attraction. Mathraki’s relationship with the sea remains visible in its working boats and small landing places.
15. Experience Mathraki After the Ferry Leaves
The greatest reason to stay overnight is not a particular attraction.
Once the ferry or excursion boat departs, Mathraki becomes exceptionally quiet. The harbour settles, the beach empties and the island’s isolation becomes much more apparent.
An evening meal, sunset walk and early morning swim at Portelo reveal more of Mathraki than a hurried circuit between ferry arrivals.
Visitors looking for nightlife or extensive entertainment may find the island too quiet. Those seeking an escape from busy resort destinations are likely to consider that same quietness its greatest strength.
Can You Walk Around Mathraki?
Much of Mathraki can be explored on foot, and some guides suggest that a broad circuit is possible in approximately three or four hours.
That estimate should not be treated as a fixed walking time. Stops, heat, path conditions and wrong turns can extend the journey considerably.
A better approach is to divide the island into sections:
- Plakes and Portelo Beach
- Chorio and the central ridge
- Ano Mathraki and the southern coast
- Kato Mathraki and the northern area
- Apidies, Kontrakas and Fyki on the western side
Visitors staying several nights can explore one section each day without rushing.
Can You Visit Mathraki on a Day Trip?
A day trip is worthwhile if the boat schedule leaves several hours ashore.
Day visitors should concentrate on:
- Plakes Harbour
- Portelo Beach
- A walk into Chorio
- Lunch near the harbour
Attempting the western coastline may be risky if the return boat leaves in the afternoon. Paths and distances take longer than they first appear, and Mathraki has limited alternatives if a visitor misses the departure.
Check the return time immediately after arriving and be back at Plakes well in advance.
How Long Should You Stay?
One night provides time to experience the island after day visitors leave.
Two or three nights is better for walking to the western harbours, exploring Chorio and enjoying Portelo without organising every activity around transport.
A longer stay suits travellers comfortable with limited services and very quiet evenings.
Mathraki is not a destination requiring a long sightseeing checklist. Its pleasure lies in walking, swimming and allowing the island’s slow pace to shape the day.
Do You Need a Car?
Most visitors do not need a car.
There is no regular public transport network, and taxis or rental vehicles should not be assumed to exist. The island’s principal locations can be reached on foot by reasonably fit visitors.
Some ferry services may carry vehicles, but bringing one requires advance confirmation and provides limited value for a short stay.
Choose accommodation near Plakes if mobility or luggage is a concern. Visitors staying elsewhere should ask whether collection from the harbour can be arranged.
What Should You Bring?
Mathraki has very limited shops and visitor services.
Useful supplies include:
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Drinking water
- Sun protection
- A hat
- Swimming shoes
- Snorkelling equipment
- Essential medication
- Cash
- Basic food for walks and beach visits
- A portable battery for your telephone
Do not assume that every product available on Corfu can also be purchased after arriving.
When Is the Best Time to Visit?
Late spring and early autumn are best for walking because temperatures are usually more comfortable.
July and August provide the greatest likelihood of accommodation, tavernas and regular visitor services, but ferry demand is also higher.
Weather matters throughout the season. Wind and sea conditions can alter ferry schedules and make exposed sections of coastline unsuitable for swimming.
Build some flexibility into travel plans, particularly when connecting with a flight or another ferry from Corfu.
Is Mathraki Worth Visiting?
Mathraki is worth visiting for travellers who want:
- A long, uncrowded sandy beach
- Quiet walking routes
- Small harbours and fishing boats
- Green countryside
- Limited development
- An island that does not revolve around tourism
It is less suitable for travellers requiring nightlife, organised activities, frequent transport or a wide selection of restaurants.
Mathraki’s lack of conventional attractions is not a weakness. It is the reason the island still feels so different from Corfu’s developed coastal resorts.
Final Thoughts
Begin at Plakes Harbour and spend time on Portelo Beach, Mathraki’s longest and most accessible stretch of sand.
Walk inland through Chorio, explore Ano and Kato Mathraki and climb towards Merovigli for broader views. Visitors staying longer can cross to the western coast to discover Apidies, Kontrakas and Fyki Bay.
Mathraki should not be turned into an exaggerated sightseeing list. Its beaches, walking paths and exceptionally quiet atmosphere provide the real reasons to visit.
