Best Beaches in Mathraki: Portelo and the Island’s Quiet Coves
Mathraki’s coastline is dominated by one exceptional beach.
Portelo runs along much of the island’s eastern shore, providing a long stretch of sand and shallow water close to the harbour at Plakes. It is the easiest and most suitable beach for most visitors.
The western and southern coasts are quite different. Here, small beaches and old harbours such as Fyki, Kontrakas, Apidies and Arvanitiko are surrounded by rocks and vegetation. They require more effort to reach and have virtually no facilities, but offer considerably greater seclusion.
Mathraki does not have an extensive collection of organised beaches. Its appeal comes from the contrast between Portelo’s open sand and the island’s quiet, rugged coves.
Portelo Beach — Best Beach in Mathraki
Portelo is the best all-round beach in Mathraki.
The long sandy shoreline extends along much of the island’s eastern coast, beginning near the main harbour at Plakes.
Estimates of its length vary between approximately two and three kilometres, but the important point is that Portelo is exceptionally long in relation to the size of the island. Visitors can walk away from the harbour and easily find an uncrowded section of sand.
The water is generally shallow, making Portelo suitable for families and relaxed swimming. Vegetation behind the beach creates an attractive natural setting, although dependable shade should not be assumed.
Facilities are concentrated near Plakes rather than spread along the entire beach.
Best for: sand, families, swimming and easy access from the ferry.
Swimming Near Plakes Harbour
The section of Portelo closest to Plakes is the most convenient place to swim during a day trip.
Visitors can reach the beach shortly after leaving the ferry and remain close to the harbour, food and basic services.
The harbour is small, but swimmers should remain aware of arriving boats and avoid the immediate manoeuvring area.
Walk farther along the beach if you want greater separation from harbour activity. Portelo’s length means there is little reason to remain beside the busiest section unless departure time is approaching.
Walking Along Portelo Beach
Walking the length of Portelo is one of the simplest and most enjoyable activities on Mathraki.
The harbour and settlement gradually disappear as the beach continues along the eastern shore. Development becomes increasingly sparse, producing the feeling of a much more remote coastline.
Beach conditions can change after winter storms. Sections may contain exposed rock, seaweed or washed-up material even when much of the shore remains sandy.
Wear sandals or shoes suitable for both sand and occasional rocky ground. Carry water because services become increasingly unlikely as you move away from Plakes.
Portelo Beach for Families
Portelo is clearly Mathraki’s best beach for children.
Its sandy shoreline and generally gentle entry into the water are more practical than the rocky western coves. The section near Plakes also keeps families close to food and the ferry harbour.
The beach is not equivalent to a fully organised family resort. Lifeguards, watersports businesses and extensive equipment rental should not be expected.
Parents should monitor sea conditions and supervise children, particularly when ferries or other boats are approaching the harbour.
Arvanitiko Beach — Best Wild Southern Beach
Arvanitiko lies on Mathraki’s southeastern coast, away from the main harbour settlement.
The beach is surrounded by a wilder landscape of rock formations and vegetation. Depending on the particular section and recent sea conditions, the shoreline may include sand, pebbles and exposed rock.
Its clear water and relative isolation make it attractive to visitors prepared to walk from Chorio or Ano Mathraki.
There are no dependable facilities. Carry water, food and sun protection, and confirm the clearest current route before setting out.
Arvanitiko is less suitable for young children or anyone requiring level, straightforward access.
Best for: wild scenery, seclusion and exploring southern Mathraki.
Apidies — Best for Fishing-Harbour Atmosphere
Apidies is a small harbour and coastal swimming area on the southwestern side of Mathraki.
It was one of the island’s older landing places and continues to be associated with local fishing boats.
The shoreline is predominantly pebbly and rocky rather than a broad expanse of sand. Its attraction comes from the quiet harbour, clear water and undeveloped western surroundings.
Apidies can be reached on foot from Chorio and the southern part of the island. Swimming may be possible when conditions are calm, but check the seabed and identify a safe place to leave the water before entering.
The harbour should remain clear for working and visiting boats.
Best for: harbour scenery, quiet swimming and combining the coast with a walk.
Fyki Bay — Best for Western-Coast Scenery
Fyki is a broad, curved bay on Mathraki’s northwestern side.
The coast here differs substantially from Portelo. Rocks extend into the sea, while small areas of sand or pebbles can appear around the bay.
Descriptions of Fyki’s shoreline vary considerably, so visitors should not expect a continuous sandy beach. Its real appeal is the sheltered shape of the bay and its setting opposite the distinctively formed islet of Trachia.
Paths descend towards different parts of the shore, but some approaches can be rough. Ask locally which route is currently easiest.
Bring everything required for the visit because organised facilities should not be expected.
Best for: scenery, snorkelling and exploring the western coast.
Trachia Island from Fyki
The rocky island of Trachia forms an important part of the view from Fyki.
Its unusual shape and history as a source of stone give this section of coastline a distinctive appearance.
Trachia is uninhabited and should not be treated as an easy swimming destination. Distance, currents and boat movements make attempting to reach an offshore islet by swimming dangerous.
Enjoy the view from Mathraki or arrange an appropriate boat excursion with someone who understands local conditions.
Kontrakas — Best for Seclusion
Kontrakas is one of Mathraki’s quietest coastal destinations.
The cove lies on the western side of the island and was historically used as a harbour. Its small settlement and green surroundings create a very different atmosphere from the open eastern shoreline.
The beach is generally described as pebbly and unorganised. Vegetation reaches close to the coast, while the water can be exceptionally clear when the western side is calm.
Kontrakas can be approached using the island’s road and walking paths, although visitors should confirm current access.
It is a good choice for those seeking solitude, but less suitable for anyone wanting soft sand, refreshments or easy family facilities.
Best for: seclusion, clear water and an undeveloped coastal setting.
Agouridi — Best Small Cove
Agouridi is a small and comparatively little-known cove.
Its shoreline contains a mixture of pebbles, sand and rock, with surrounding formations giving it a more enclosed feeling than Portelo.
The cove receives few visitors and offers no dependable services. Access conditions can vary, so local advice is valuable before making a special journey.
Agouridi is better suited to adventurous walkers than visitors with only a few hours on the island.
Approach it as a quiet place to explore rather than one of Mathraki’s essential beaches.
Best for: solitude and discovering a small coastal cove.
Which Mathraki Beach Has the Best Sand?
Portelo is unquestionably the best choice for sand.
It is the island’s only extensive, consistently sandy beach and provides far more space than the small western and southern coves.
Arvanitiko and parts of Fyki or Agouridi may contain areas of sand, but their shorelines are more variable and frequently mixed with pebbles or rock.
Visitors wanting a traditional beach day should choose Portelo. The other beaches are more rewarding for their scenery, isolation and sense of exploration.
Which Beach Has the Clearest Water?
Clear water can be found around much of Mathraki.
Fyki, Kontrakas, Apidies and Arvanitiko may look exceptionally clear when conditions are calm because of their rocky or pebbly seabeds.
Portelo also has attractive water, but sand can become suspended after waves or heavy beach activity.
Clarity changes with wind, currents and recent weather. A bay that is transparent one morning may look completely different after the wind changes.
Which Beach Is Best for Snorkelling?
Fyki and the rockier western coast generally provide the most varied underwater terrain.
Rock formations create more habitat than the predominantly sandy seabed at Portelo. Kontrakas and Apidies may also offer useful snorkelling close to shore.
Bring personal equipment from Corfu because snorkelling rental should not be assumed on Mathraki.
Avoid swimming alone in isolated locations, and stay clear of harbour entrances and boat routes.
Which Beach Is Best for a Day Trip?
Choose Portelo if visiting Mathraki for only a few hours.
The beach begins near Plakes Harbour, making it possible to swim, eat and return to the ferry without undertaking a long cross-island walk.
A short walk into Chorio can be added if the timetable allows.
The western coves are better suited to an overnight stay. Attempting to reach Fyki or Kontrakas while watching the return-ferry deadline can turn an enjoyable walk into a stressful excursion.
Are Mathraki’s Beaches Organised?
Mathraki has very little organised beach infrastructure.
Some seasonal facilities may be found near Plakes and the most accessible section of Portelo. The remainder of the beach becomes increasingly natural as it extends away from the harbour.
Arvanitiko, Apidies, Fyki, Kontrakas and Agouridi should all be treated as unorganised coastal areas.
Bring water, food and sun protection. Do not rely on finding sunbeds, toilets, changing rooms or refreshments after leaving Plakes.
Can You Reach the Beaches Without a Car?
Most beaches can be approached on foot.
Mathraki does not have a dependable public transport system, and car or scooter rental should not be expected after arrival. Walking is therefore the normal way to explore.
Portelo is immediately accessible from Plakes.
The other beaches require walks through the island’s interior or towards the western coast. Path quality and signs can vary, so ask your accommodation or a local business for current directions.
A vehicle may be brought on some ferry services, but it is unnecessary for most reasonably fit visitors.
Western Coast or Eastern Coast?
Mathraki’s eastern coast is flatter and contains the long sandy shoreline of Portelo.
The western coast is rockier, more irregular and divided into small bays and former harbours. It offers greater seclusion but generally requires more effort to explore.
Wind direction should influence the choice. If one side of the island is rough, the opposite coast may provide better swimming conditions.
Ask locally before walking a long distance specifically to find sheltered water.
What to Bring to the Beach
Visitors leaving Portelo and Plakes should be self-sufficient.
Bring:
- Drinking water
- Food or snacks
- Sun protection
- A hat
- Secure walking shoes
- Swimming shoes for rocks and pebbles
- Snorkelling equipment
- A fully charged telephone
- A bag for taking rubbish away
Natural shade can be limited even where vegetation grows close to the shore.
Beach Safety on Mathraki
Mathraki’s remoteness is part of its attraction, but it also means assistance may not be immediately available.
Take extra care when visiting isolated coves:
- Check wind and sea conditions before swimming
- Identify a safe exit point
- Avoid entering unfamiliar water alone
- Stay clear of fishing and ferry activity
- Do not attempt to swim to offshore islets
- Tell someone where you are walking
- Return well before darkness
Rocky paths can also become slippery near the water. Proper footwear is more useful than beach sandals when exploring the western coast.
Protecting Mathraki’s Beaches
Mathraki has limited resources for handling waste and maintaining remote coastal areas.
Take all rubbish back to the settlement, avoid disturbing vegetation and do not leave cigarette ends or plastic behind.
Do not create new paths across fragile coastal ground when an established approach exists.
The absence of intensive development is what makes these beaches valuable. Visitors play an important role in keeping them that way.
Final Thoughts
Portelo is by far the best beach in Mathraki for most visitors. Its long sandy shoreline, shallow water and proximity to Plakes make it suitable for families, day visitors and anyone wanting a relaxed swim.
The smaller beaches are about exploration rather than convenience.
Choose Arvanitiko for wild southern scenery, Apidies for its fishing-harbour atmosphere, Fyki for the western landscape and views towards Trachia, or Kontrakas for seclusion.
Mathraki does not offer a conventional beach-hopping circuit. Instead, it combines one excellent sandy beach with several rugged coves that reward walkers willing to explore beyond the harbour.
